This presentation is a report about what people are doing -- not what anyone should do. Bouldering is more dangerous for injuries than roped climbing. Bouldering requires extensive training in safer falling, as well as climbing techniques. For that, a bouldering "crash pad" is highly recommended, with an experienced "spotter" to aid with the pad and any fall. There are many places at Pilot Mtn. where appropriate situations can be utilized, if you so choose. |
The Park considers climbing without a rope to still be climbing, so permit forms are still required. The nearest site is above Upper Ledge Springs Trail from the top of Three Bears Gully, called 'Overbears Boulders'. About 200 yards past Three Bears Gully on Upper Ledge Springs Trail, 'Trailside Boulder' has been set aside for bouldering. Leading uphill from where you can first see 'Trailside Boulder', a footpath will take you to 'Cave Boulder'.
If you go down Three Bears Gully to Lower Ledge Springs Trail, the overhang to the right at the 'Boulder Dude' face can be a boulder problem. And below the 'Three Bears' area there is a flat-sided boulder with some potential. Hiking uphill to the Amphitheater, pause at the dark middle wall and look downhill. Below some small boulders (an area used as latrine), is a large rock (here dubbed 'SubAmphi') with a vertical crack that might be worth some effort. Farther uphill past 'Black Rain', there is a long overhanging base that could be a traverse, but is right on the Trail. You can sit-start the base at 'Herculean Test', rated as V 4-5 by climbers, who may be there using a rope.
Hiking downhill from Three Bears Gully on Lower Ledge Springs Trail, you will pass under a Long Low Roof with a long traverse opportunity. Down below the Copper Top area is a very large boulder, with a high vertical face that may show a flat white top, here named 'No Exit Boulder'. On the Lower Trail below 'I Gotta Wear Shades', the larger of two boulders that makes Boulder Gate also has a good flat face. Below there you will find two, one much larger, called Tumble Down Boulders. Farther down is Sweet Little Boulder. Back on Lower Ledge Springs Trail, a short ways farther downhill from 'Gate' is 'Corner Boulder' up on the right. Looking down the slope from there, you will see a pair of small pieces named 'Rhomboid Boulders', as you will see when you see them. When you have gone past The Beach climbing area and reach Pool Hall, check Under Pool.
Then beyond the climbing cliffs past the little springs that the Trail is named for, there is Mountain Trail down stone steps on the left, marked with red dots. After going downhill, there will be a wide and open area for a sudden left turn at two red dots, and then mostly level. Past a slight rise with many rocks on the trail, the large 'Feelgood Boulder' is hidden up in the woods with a large fallen pine to its left. A short walk downhill from there will be a pair of boulders, one to each side of the trail, here called 'Feel Better Boulders', since they will let you feel better about going down that far and having to hike that far back up. With another short walk to again many small rocks, there are again more boulders, here called 'Mo' Boulders'.
from Upper Ledge Springs Trail:
from Lower Ledge Springs Trail:
Boulder Dude roof problem
Three Bears Boulder
Long Low Roof traverse
No Exit highball Boulder
Tumble Down Boulders
Sweet Little Boulder
Under Pool traverse
from Mountain Trail:
Feelgood highball Boulder
Feel Better highball Boulders
Return to Climbing Areas to Upper Ledge Springs Trail to opening page.