Arms Control

5.7, 5.11 - Sport

3 bolts, midway anchors, 3 bolts, new rings

This route is on the right end of the middle face, before the raised area beyond the shallow dihedral. Because the rings are the most easily accessible at Pilot Mtn., they are used for rappelling, and for top-roping. With the extreme overhang, the higher you go the farther away you will be from the wall from a fall. Even for lead, you will save your rope if you rig the top anchors for top-rope with 3' min. runner distance.

There is a 5.7 top-rope line on the lower part, also used by those in a hurry to get to work on the roof, that follows the dark dihedral until crossing left to the short rough dihedral. The sloped face is soon over at the middle overhangs. You can lower, or fall and be lowered. If using the top anchors out on the roof, expect an exciting ride into space. So, some traverse from 'Secretary' to use the two hangers on the overhang face to set top-rope for the lower part (see ex.1, ex.2, ex.3).

The lower face has three bolts to the small overhang, and some place gear before trying for the fourth one. Though the lowest first bolt on that wall, the start is not easy, and gets a "stick-clip" from many. From there, straight up is 5.11 thin, but can be avoided to either side. Finding a stance at the second bolt is also difficult or made easier. After clipping the fourth bolt, you are up in the crack beneath the main roof. Some use the rusty fifth bolt, some place gear in the closer crack, some use both. The sixth bolt is only awkward, and waste no time or energy on it. The crux is getting a grip in the small V-notch above: left hand or right hand, higher right, often with a full hang and pull-up, and probably a heel-hook to help clip the seventh bolt. Getting onto the top ledge to the anchors is clumsy, and strenuous as tired as you will be.

There have been some dire accidents on this route, one in 2010 by a person experienced on this route.

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Posted for first copyrights :  Dec. 15, 2010